My usual ascension to Ama Dablam is done from the Southwestern ridge. We will set up three camps just below and on the right of the hanging glacier, “Dablam”. The hike is modest up to camp 1, but the challenge starts from camp 1 to camp 2 as it gets more technical in the narrow edges of ridges made from granite. This challenge increases even more from camp 2 to camp 3. Some risk of glacier falls cannot be escaped but it is said that adventure without risk is Disneyland. One should train himself the skills of rock and ice climbing and get used to high altitudes before thinking of Ama Dablam. If you have former experience as a climber and wish to join this expedition team to the world’s most extraordinary mountain, then Ama Dablam Expedition is for you.
Jason black will be the expedition leader and with one of the most ground-breaking Irish mountaineers of a generation at your side, you’ll be in the very best company to reach beyond what you thought was possible and become an Ama Dablam summiteer.
Experience in mountaineering at 6000m is recommended and required to sign up for this expedition.
Grade: Hard Difficult
Duration: 30 Days
Route: South West
Date: 15 OCT 2023
Date: 14 OCT 2024
Deposit €399 on booking.
Full payment required six weeks before trip departs.
- ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE : Airport – Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop), by private vehicle.
- HOTEL ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU : 4 nights hotel in Kathmandu (4-star category) – single room on bed and breakfast plan.
- WELCOME DINNER : Your Welcome Dinner in Kathmandu
- CARGO CLEARANCE : Assistance for cargo clearance in Nepal’s Customs, clearance cost is subject to a charge.
- PERMITS : Expedition Royalty and a permit fee of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Ama Dablam, Sagarmatha National Park, and Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality entry permit and fee.
- LIAISON OFFICER : 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
- GARBAGE MANAGEMENT : Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees.
- INSURANCE : Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and expedition.
- MAP : Trekking and climbing map.
- MEMBER TRANSPORTATION : – (Domestic Flight) Fly from Kathmandu – Lukla and while returning Lukla – Kathmandu, as per itinerary.
- EXPEDITION STUFFS TRANSPORTATION : All necessary expedition equipment transportation for all Members and Staff from Kathmandu to Lukla (by air cargo) and Base camp (by Porters / Yak) – While returning: Base camp to Lukla (by porters / Yak) and Lukla to Kathmandu (by air cargo).
- MEMBER LUGGAGE : Up to 60 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek to be carried by porters or Yaks.
- FOOD AND LODGING : 3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge during the trek and at the Basecamp. Hygienic and fresh green vegetables, fresh meat, fruits, and soft drinks will be served during the entire expedition using helicopter flights. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staff.
- PORTER : Porters per member up to the Base camp and from the Basecamp (both ways).
- BASE CAMP STAFF : Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen Helpers as required.
- STAFF SALARY AND ALLOWANCE : All Nepalese staff & porters’ daily wages, salary, equipment, food & clothing.
- BASE CAMP TENT : Each member will have an individual box tent in Base Camp.
- BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT : Single Tent, foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dinning Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower Tent, 1 Staffs Tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staffs, Store tents, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gears.
- HEATER : Heater at base camp in each Dining and other necessary camps.
- SOLAR/GENERATOR/LIGHT : 1 Solar panel and Generator for lights at base camp, battery charge, for laptop and other electronic devices.
- TRAINING : Oxygen, Mask Regulator, Ice wall, and gear training at basecamp by Jason Black & his mountaineering sherpa guides.
- HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING SHERPA : 1 government-licensed climbing Sherpa per member (1 Member: 1 Sherpa), during the entire climb from Basecamp to the summit and back, and on each rotation.
- ASSISTANCE : Climbing Sherpa to assist in carrying your gear to the high camps.
- CLIMBING SHERPA SALARY & ALLOWANCE : Climbing Sherpa Salary, Equipment, Food, and Clothing.
- BONUS : Carry Bonus of Sherpas and Route Fixing Charges.
- OXYGEN BOTTLE (O2) : Oxygen bottles will be in stock at base camp in case of an emergency (with an appropriate charge).
- OXYGEN MASK & REGULATOR : 1 Set of Summit Oxygen masks will be in base camp in case of an emergency.
- HIGH CAMP SERVICE (INFRASTRUCTURE AND LOGISTICS) : High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for a member, Sherpa, and other crews at (C1) (C2) and (C3). Group climbing gears, and fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.
- HIGH ALTITUDE TENT : Members will share tents in high camps (2 members: 1 tent).
- ROPE FIXING TEAM : The team of experienced Sherpas will fix the rope and the route.
- SATELLITE PHONE : Satellite Phone for emergency communication carried by Sherpa, also available for members with an appropriate charge.
- WALKIE-TALKIE : Walkie–Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
- PERMIT : Walkie-talkie permit for all members and staff.
- WEATHER FORECAST : Weather forecast report during the entire expedition.
- MEDICAL KIT : Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.
- CERTIFICATE : Ama Dablam climbing certificate issued by MoCTCA (after climbing Ama Dablam successfully).
Day 1 | Elevation: 1400m
Arrival in Kathmandu (1400m) & Transfer to the Hotel
Rest in Kathmandu, Expedition Briefing and Preparing
Fly from Kathmandu – to Lukla, and trek to Phakding (2,800m)
Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazzar (3,440m)
Acclimatisation at Namche Bazaar (Rest Day): Hike to Everest View Hotel (Optional)
Trek from Namche Bazzar to Dibuche (3,760m)
Trek from Namche Bazzar to Dibuche (3,760m)
Trek from Pangboche to Ama Dablam Basecamp (4,450m)
Summit Push: [Basecamp –Summit (6,812m) – Basecamp]
Trek from Base Camp to Namche Bazaar
Trek from Namche Bazzar to Lukla
Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu & transfer to the Hotel
Leisure day in Kathmandu City
Transfer to International Airport for final departure
CLIMBING GEAR FOR MT. AMA DABLAM (6812m)
PP Size Photo (4 Pieces)
Insurance Paper And Contact Address. Family Members / Company’s Contact Address
Summit Boot – 7000 m. (Kailas / Lasportiva / Millet) Normal Socks (5-6 Pairs) Summit Socks (2 Pairs) Trekking Shoes (Gore Tex) Light Trekking/Sports Shoes Camp Booties (1 Pair) Slipper (1 Pair)
Thermal Top Base Layer (2-3 Pcs) Fleece Jacket (2 Pcs)
Gore Tex Jacket (1 Pcs)
Warm Jacket (1-2 Pcs)
Wind Proof Jacket (1 Pcs) Down Jacket (1 Pcs) Cotton T-Shirt (2-4 Pcs)
Thermal Bottom Base Layer (2-3 Pcs) Fleece Trouser (1pcs)
Gore Tex Pant (1 pcs)
Heavy Weight Pants (1-2 Pcs)
Mid Weight Pants (1-2 Pcs)
Light Weight Quick Dry Trekking Pants (2-3 Pairs)
Gaiters for trekking boots
Down Pants (1pcs)
Under Wear (3-5 Pcs)
Fleece Hat/ Warm Hat (1-2 Pcs) Neck Gaiter (2-3 Pcs)
Thin Fleece Gloves (2 Pairs)
Wind Stopper / Screen Tap Gloves Heavy Gloves (Guide Gloves) Summit Gloves – 7000m
Sleeping Bag -30OC to -40OC Thermarest Mattress (Cell Foam) Sleeping Bag Liner
Summit Down Suit – 8000m.
(Kailas / Marmot / Mountain Hardware / North Face / Millet ) Crampons (Fit with Boot)/Packing Cover
Ice Axe with Spike & Axe Protector Harness
Belay Devices/ Figure of 8/ATC Guide Jumar / Ascender
Lock Carabiner (3 Pcs)
Unlock Carabiner (2 Pcs)
Tape Slings/240 cm
Head Light 400-500 Lumens Spare Battery (Energizer Ultimate Lithium)
Rucksacks 35L – 50L
Duffle Bag 90 L -120 L (2 Pcs) Water Proof Stuff Sacks/Dry Bag- Small/ Medium/ Large (2-3 Pcs)
Banana Boat/ Nivea Sun Cream (-50 Spf )
Lip Guard -30 to -50 (Spf )
Sun Glasses (Uv Protection) Glaciers Glasses
(Antifog, Polarised, UV Protection) Moisturiser / Lotion
Hand Disinfectant Toilet Paper / Wet Tissue Toothpaste, Toothbrush Soap, Shampoo
Eating & Drinking
1 Ltr. Water Bottle 1/ 1.5 Ltr. Thermos Mug (Opt.) Spoon/ Fork (Opt.) Bowl (Opt.)
Brufen / Ibuprofens Antibiotic
Diamox Paracetamol Handy Plaster Crack Bandage Tincture Iodine Ondem
Minil 10mg (Palpitation, anxiety) Codopar (Headache & chest pain) Salbetol 4mg (Breathless) Azithromycin 500mg (chronic tonsillitis, fever, nose, throat infection-must take 5 days) Flupen 250mg (prevent wound infection) Allegra 120/180mg (Allergic tonsil)
Walking Stick/ Trekking Pole Pocket Knife (Swiss)
Umbrella / Rain Coat
Hot Water Bag
Tenacious Tape Repair (Down Jacket/ Sleeping Bag Repair Kits)
Satellite Phone With Credit
GPS Tracker (Recommended)
Immigration Office, TIA (Tribhuvan International Airport) under the Department of Immigration has been facilitating tourists flying to Nepal by providing visas on Arrival. To obtain a visa upon arrival by air in Nepal you must fill in an application form and provide a passport copy. Visa application forms are available at the arrival hall, though some airlines provide this form on the flight. There are now visa registration machines in the immigration hall for people with electronic passports, which will automatically fill out the visa form for you after inserting your passport. Or, you can get a visa from Nepalese Diplomatic Missions stationed in your own country before your arrival.
Getting in Nepal
There are many entry points in Nepal but most of you will take a flight to Kathmandu which is the only entry point for travelers who are entering by air. Your expedition will officially begin after flying to Kathmandu where you will be picked up by Jason Black Mountaineering at the airport, so you need to provide your arrival details in advance. And also lets us know if your flight gets delayed right away so we can manage everything accordingly.
Domestic flights in Nepal are the main intercommunication to reach the region where you are going for your expedition as most of these regions are disconnected by road transport. Your flights into the Khumbu and any other region that are mentioned in your trip program will be reserved by us on your behalf. Due to the terrain and landscapes of Nepal domestic flights might get caught in weather delays which is why we recommend your return flight back to home be changeable at any time.
Altitude Sickness is an effect of high-altitude atmospheric pressure that results in a quick change in oxygen level and air pressure of a human body. The symptoms will arise while walking at a high altitude without properly acclimatising the body. It can happen to anyone even if they have great physical fitness if you climb faster at a higher altitude. It is better to ascend gradually to prevent altitude sickness.
There is good access to ATMs anywhere in most city areas, however, you will find it hard in rural areas. Different banks have their maximum withdrawal amount limit. Most hotels, restaurants, airlines, and travel agents accept cards as well. It is more important to have enough cash as there will be very limited or no ATMs access in trekking areas and also some reserves cash for emergencies. USD is selectively acceptable in Nepal but still, you need to make sure you have Nepalese currency on hand during the expedition.
There is no significant rule about tipping your guide or porter but it has been more common in Nepal. It is on you to decide whether to thank the guide and porter with tips or not. But in most cases, guides and porters expect tips from you though they don’t ask for tips verbally.
The water quality in Nepal isn’t the greatest so it is better to use a water filtration or purification tablet. You can also drink boiled water if you like. Make sure to drink a lot of water during the expedition as your body requires more at a higher altitude.
Nepal is a heaven for adventures and is comparatively a safe destination for those adventures. There is a low rate of serious crime however you should still take sensible safety measures. Keep an eye on pick-pocketers and snatchers in buses and tourist areas. You can avoid walking with a large amount of cash on your own. Always let your guide know if you’re going out during the trip.
Internet and SIM Card
Most cities have extensive access to the internet, also hotels, restaurants, and cafes that offer free WIFI. But outside the cities, in the remote trekking areas, it’s fair to non-existent. During the expedition, the internet is available at the base camp for a certain amount of cost. You can easily purchase a SIM card at an affordable cost. You can use the data package using the SIM card as well.
Vaccinations & Immunisation
Before traveling to Nepal, please consult your travel clinic for updated information on vaccinations and immunisations. The commonly recommended vaccinations are Chickenpox, Diphtheria-Tetanus, Polio, Shingles, Covid-19, Hepatitis A & B, Encephalitis, Malaria, Measles, Rabies, Typhoid, and Yellow Fever.
There is a fine line between adventure and blatant risk. Mountaineering is an adventure trip that carries an intrinsic danger and the nature of travel implies things don’t generally go according to the plan, which is the reason why we require every one of our clients to get acceptable and proper insurance.
Due to unanticipated reasons, for example, injury, family issues, work commitments, etc., clients may need to cancel their trip before the start or during the expedition. Considering these factors, it’s better to be prepared for the possibilities.
As mentioned in the Terms and Conditions of Jason Black mountaineering, the company is exempt from being liable for different expenses that may occur in case of different emergencies or unforeseen situations. Both facts point out the requirement of a client to purchase an elaborate travel insurance plan in their place of origin that protects their interest in case of trip cancellation, helicopter evacuation, medical emergencies, other illnesses, lost luggage, theft, disasters, death, and so on.
You are free to pick your insurer however look for an arrangement that covers trip postponement and cancellation, rescue, and covers medical as well. Guarantee it doesn’t have limitations on the height you will climb, prohibitions on the exercises you are embracing, or the places you will be visiting. Protect yourself with the right insurance so you can go on your expedition with peace of mind and focus more on your climbing.
Please make sure to send us a copy of your insurance policy before you start your expedition so that we can assist you in any case of an emergency.