At 7am on the 19th may 2013 i proudly stood on the summit of the highest mountain in the world – Mt Everest standing 29,029ft.
Being the first Donegal person in Irish history a humbling moment that will live with me forever. Jason Black successfully summit “via the North ridge”
Back round facts – Jason Black has been a keen mountaineer from a very young age with his introduction through 1st Letterkenny cubs & scout troop, an introduction he firmly believes fueled his love for the great outdoors, and having the wonderful surroundings of the beautiful Donegal mountains as your play ground ..well how could he have missed his outdoors passion.
Jason stated that a chance meeting with the first Irish Mt Everest submitters was another powerful moment “In 1993 my self and a few friends were keen climbers & by chance the first ever Irish mt Everest submitters led by Dawson Stelfox ,Frank Nugent & Dermot Somers were giving a talk on there successful summit of Everest in letterkenny regional college,so myself and Fancie Gallagher (Climbing friend) attended & that was it …bolded over with the energy the inspiration the sense of adventure to the highest place in the world.
Since then Jason’s life has been filled with his love for sport & the great outdoors surrounded by great like minded friends who share his same passion for fun.
“The energy & inspiration that Dawson stelfox lit that day in letterkenny still burns as strong today 20years on. Several years ago i quietly set about my preparation plan to climb to high altitudes spending time in the Alps & Pyrenees & the Himalayas with the ultimate goal of taking on the biggest in the world Mt Everest some day”.
Jason’s summit approach took him up the more difficult route via the north ridge, the route begins from the north side of Everest in Tibet. The Expeditions was up via the Rongbuk Glacier, setting up base camp at 5,180 m (16,990 ft) on a gravel plain just below the glacier. To reach Camp II, Jason ascended the medial moraine of the east Rongbuk Glacier up to the base of Changtse at around 6,100 m (20,000 ft). Camp III (ABC—Advanced Base Camp) is situated below the North Col at 6,500 m (21,300 ft). To reach Camp IV on the north col the approach up the glacier lead to the foot of the col where ropes were fixed in place allowing a safe climb to reach the North Col at 7,010 m (23,000 ft). From the North Col it was up the rocky north ridge to set up Camp V at around 7,775 m (25,500 ft). The route crosses the North Face in a diagonal climb to the base of the Yellow Band reaching the site of Camp VI at 8,230 m (27,000 ft). From Camp VI, Jason made his final summit push. From here a treacherous traverse from the base of the First Step: ascending from 8,501 metres (27,890 ft) to 8,534 m (28,000 ft), to the crux of the climb, the Second Step: ascending from 8,577 metres (28,140 ft) to 8,626 m (28,300 ft). (The Second Step includes a climbing aid called the “Chinese ladder”, a metal ladder placed semi-permanently in 1975 by a party of Chinese climbers. It has been almost continuously in place since, and ladders have been used by virtually all climbers on the route.) Once above the Second Step the inconsequential Third Step is clambered over: ascending from 8,690 m (28,510 ft) to 8,800 m (28,870 ft). Once above these steps, the summit pyramid is climbed by a snow slope of 50 degrees, to the final summit ridge along which the top is reached.
“That morning climbing cold the mountain gods are good to me as the weather was just perfect, My aim was to successfully summit via the north ridge at the end of may, And on the 19th may 2013 my dream became reality as i stood on TOP OF THE WORLD at 7am.
I have alot of people to thank for giving me the strength & a great foundation for this summit success ,too many to mention but you know who you are, for me in life friends and family “past & present” mean everything to me and with out your support it wouldn’t be possible…..im forever appreciative “.
Humbled & Proud